TABRIZ, IRAN

Tabriz is the capital of Eastern Azerbaijan Province in northwest of Iran. Tabriz is the largest and most populated city in this region and is located in a valley between Sahand and Eynali mountains. The two main rivers that run through this region are Aji Chai (bitter river) and Ghuri Chai (dry river). Tabriz translates to “fever breaker.” It is said that Tabriz was given its name long time ago when a crown prince who was taken ill with a high fever visited Tabriz and his fever of many days finally broke.
Tabriz is known for its dry and cool climate with four seasons. Summer is dry with moderate heat and this makes it a welcome getaway destination for visitors from all over Iran in warm months. Tabriz is famous for its fruit gardens and its dried fruit industry. Dried nuts (ajil) is one of the main exports of this region with some famous names such as Ajili Tavazo and Ajili Lux (pronounced looks). In the more recent years Tabriz has been expanding its chocolate and candy production and exports. To name a few confectionery factories: Aidin, Anata, Aysuda, Hiss, Shirin Asal, Shoniz, Aidin are among the famous ones, though there might be a few more.

The indoor produce bazaar in Tabriz, Iran. Fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables are brought in every morning.

The freshly picked vegetables are already ripe and delicious when they are delivered to the market.

Bread is baked from scratch early in the morning for only a couple of hours. Usually there is a long line of customers waiting outside most bakeries to get their delicious hot bread for the day. Some bakeries also bake more fresh bread later in the evening with more lines, and yet the customers are perfectly fine with the fact that they will do this again the next day, because who wants to eat stale day-old bread?

This is another specialized bakery that only bakes Sangak, a traditional Iranian flat bread that is about 15×40 inches. The dough is stretched long and thin and laid directly on top of hot pebbles in a very hot oven. Similar to most traditional bakeries, this one operates only for a few hours daily. If you are a late sleeper or don’t like to wait in line there is a good chance that you won’t be able to taste this amazing bread while it is still hot!

Sangak was traditionally baked exclusively with whole wheat flour but in the recent years some bakeries in Iran have also been using some or all wheat flour, with a resulting lighter colored bread, which in my opinion lacks some of the authentic flavor. Sangak is sold in some Middle Eastern markets in U.S.

The atmosphere in Tabriz bazaar touches your soul in so many levels. The beautiful ancient architecture goes back to the 16th century. The vendors are very friendly and greet the patrons with big smiles. The freshly picked fruits and vegetables are abundant in variety and flavor. This is where the residents and tourists alike do most of their shopping even though there are modern supermarkets scattered all over town. Tabriz residents are regular customers here because they know no supermarket can match the freshness and selection, and the tourists are mesmerized by the total experience and culture as well as the fresh produce. It seems like time has stopped here and you have traveled back a few centuries. There is a magic in Tabriz bazaar that can not be explained but you feel it in every fiber of your existence when you visit.

Shopping for fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables is a daily event in most Tabrizi households. The produce is so fresh and so perfectly ripe that they are best enjoyed on the day that they are purchased.

Fresh young spring garlic is only available for a short few weeks and the flavor and texture is amazing . Fresh garlic is minced and used in the filling of Dolmeh Barg as well as in the yogurt that is served on the side.  It is also mixed with yogurt and cucumber for an easy yet delicious appetizer.  Of course one must not forget “Kalleh Pacheh,” which is a very rich delicacy made with lamb hooves and head, and it tastes even better with fresh garlic.